{"id":1014,"date":"2020-03-28T23:39:39","date_gmt":"2020-03-28T22:39:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/?p=1014"},"modified":"2024-11-24T20:43:39","modified_gmt":"2024-11-24T19:43:39","slug":"plaice-and-celery-ramen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/?p=1014&lang=en","title":{"rendered":"Plaice and Celery Ramen"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>This dish could also be called a <em>Ph\u1edf<\/em>, as it&rsquo;s based on a broth with soba noodles, or a Lao-mian&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>We&rsquo;re diving into the depths of the slow food ocean here, with a broth simmered overnight.<\/p>\n<p>The idea is to push fish-based ramen out of its comfort zone.<\/p>\n<p>Usually, ramen takes you on a journey from the broth to the protein, with vegetables and neutral noodles acting as supporting players. The spotlight typically lands on the meat, fish, spices, or sauces.<\/p>\n<p>Here, we&rsquo;re flipping the script: the fish fillet, reminiscent of \u00ab\u00a0fish&rsquo;n&rsquo;chips,\u00a0\u00bb offers a familiar, crispy gateway. Then, celery tempura and quail eggs lead you into vegetal territory before the soba noodles and an then, the deep dive into an unwavering broth.<\/p>\n<p>Brace yourself that&rsquo;s a looong list.<\/p>\n<p>For 4 servings<\/p>\n<p>core ingredients:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>1 large plaice (1 kg or more)<\/li>\n<li>400 g celery stalks with leaves<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>For the broth:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>3 liters water<\/li>\n<li>1 bouquet garni<\/li>\n<li>1 pink onion<\/li>\n<li>1 clove<\/li>\n<li>20 g dried kombu seaweed<\/li>\n<li>3 cardamom pods<\/li>\n<li>1 tbsp soy sauce<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>For the noodles:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>200 g buckwheat flour<\/li>\n<li>100 g high-gluten flour (e.g., Manitoba, &rsquo;00&rsquo;)<\/li>\n<li>150 ml water<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>For the tempura:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>150 g all-purpose flour (type 65)<\/li>\n<li>5 g baking powder<\/li>\n<li>150 ml water<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Just for fun:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>About 20 quail eggs<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Salt is at your discretion, as always<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>First things first: you\u2019ll need to fillet your plaice.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019m assuming it\u2019s already gutted (if not, get that done\u2014nothing from the guts is going to be used).<\/p>\n<p>Take your time when filleting\u2014it\u2019s always a bit soul-crushing to end up with a mangled mess of fish.<\/p>\n<p>Once you\u2019ve got your fillets, reserve in the fridge. We\u2019ll use them tomorrow. Break the fish carcass into two or three pieces so it fits into your pot.<\/p>\n<p>Since plaice is a pretty strong-flavored fish, you should blanch the carcass quickly to get rid of impurities if you want a clearer broth. your choice<\/p>\n<p>Cut the celery stalks into little slices, about 3\u20134 mm wide, and put them into the pot. Save the leafy ends (around 15\u201320 cm) for making tempura later.<\/p>\n<p>Add the bouquet garni, cardamom, clove, and onion. Heat everything to just below boiling and let it <em>simmer<\/em> all night long.<\/p>\n<p>on the next day : strain the broth. Keep the broth and the celery bits; everything else can be discarded<\/p>\n<p>Now let\u2019s do something fun with the eggs.<\/p>\n<p>We\u2019re going for \u201calmost perfect\u201d eggs. a bit mysterious isn&rsquo;t it ?<\/p>\n<p>The thing with the \u201cperfect egg\u201d is that the texture is absolutely amazing\u2014silky, creamy, dreamy\u2014but honestly, it\u2019s a massive pain to work with in certain dishes. In ramen, for example, it\u2019s just too delicate and messy. On the other hand, a hard-boiled quail eggs is let\u2019s call it not the best you can get out of them.<\/p>\n<p>So, we\u2019re going to cheat a little and use temperature gradients and albumin coagulation to our advantage. (Sounds fancy, right? In practice, it\u2019s just a two-step cooking process.)<\/p>\n<p>Here\u2019s the plan:<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>Boil the eggs for <strong>1 minute 20 seconds<\/strong>, then quickly cool them down.<\/li>\n<li>Toss them into a sous-vide bath at <strong>64\u00b0C for 25 minutes<\/strong>. After that, peel them and set them aside.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<p>If that all sounds like a headache, just soft-boil them instead\u2014they\u2019ll still be delicious!<\/p>\n<p>We\u2019re going with soba noodles here to amplify the vegetal and slightly briny vibes from the fish.<\/p>\n<p>We\u2019ll knead a soba dough using buckwheat flour mixed with high-gluten flour and 150 ml of water.<\/p>\n<p>Now, this isn\u2019t some hardcore master-level soba. Proper soba noodles are no joke\u2014I have no idea how those folks manage with only 10% wheat flour. They must be adding straight-up gluten or some kind of magic. This version is more like a Breton buckwheat galette when it comes to the intensity of the buckwheat flavor.<\/p>\n<p>Start kneading at medium speed with a stand mixer, but finish by hand for the best results. Wrap the dough and let it rest for 30 minutes.<\/p>\n<p>next, comes the batter preparation, Mix water, flour, and baking powder together. Whisk it up, add a pinch of salt if needed, reserve in the fridge. This helps with the thermal shock when frying.<\/p>\n<p>Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1.5\u20132 mm, then cut it into strips. If you\u2019re a pasta machine pro and feeling ambitious, go for it. Personally, I stick to hand-cutting, even if it\u2019s slower and gives uneven noodles. I like the rustic look.<\/p>\n<p>Boil the noodles for 2\u20133 minutes in simmering water.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>If you\u2019re not up for making noodles from scratch, no judgment\u2014there are plenty of decent dried soba options at the store. Just be sure to pre-cook them if you go .<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Whatever you choose, rinse the cooked noodles well to get rid of the starch film, then store them in a slightly damp container to keep them from drying out while you finish everything else.<\/p>\n<p>Peel the skin off the fillets. The trick? Sear the skin-side down in a hot oiled pan for about 20 seconds. The skin should come off easily after that. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels, then coat them in flour<\/p>\n<p>Dunk everything (celery leaves and fish) completely in the tempura batter, then fry.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Celery leaves:<\/strong> 2\u20133 minutes at 190\u00b0C.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Plaice fillets:<\/strong> 3\u20134 minutes at the same temp.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<blockquote><p>If, like me, you don\u2019t have two fryers, fry the celery tempura first. Keep them warm in a ceramic bowl lined with paper towels in the oven at 120\u00b0C\u2014just enough to wick away excess oil without drying them out. Then fry the fish last.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<hr \/>\n<p><strong>Plating<br \/>\n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Start with noodles at the bottom of the bowl.<\/p>\n<p>Scatter the reserved celery pieces from the broth over the noodles.<\/p>\n<p>Ladle in the hot broth.<\/p>\n<p>Place the quail eggs to the side\u2014cut them in half if they\u2019re soft-boiled, or leave them whole if you did the sous-vide trick.<\/p>\n<p>Arrange the tempura along the edge of the bowl or anywhere they won\u2019t touch the broth (to keep them crispy). Worst case? Cut them up and serve on a side plate.<\/p>\n<p>should look about like this<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-large wp-image-632\" src=\"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/20200328_125020-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"bol de Ramen avec un filet de poisson pan\u00e9 \u00e0 cheval sur les bords du bol\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/20200328_125020-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/20200328_125020-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/20200328_125020-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/20200328_125020-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/20200328_125020-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This dish could also be called a Ph\u1edf, as it&rsquo;s based on a broth with soba noodles, or a Lao-mian&#8230; We&rsquo;re diving into the depths of the slow food ocean [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":632,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[12,720],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1014","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nounours_recipes","category-slow-food-en"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1014","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1014"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1014\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1017,"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1014\/revisions\/1017"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/632"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1014"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1014"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/lacuisinedenounours.fr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1014"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}